Each Chef Should Study Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.